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WILD BLACKBERRY & MULBERRY, FOOD-FRIENDLY, HEADY HERBS Lagrein is a seldom-encountered grape from Italy’s Alto Adige. The region, more famous for its Pinot family of wines, is just below the Austrian border, though far from Austria’s wine country. Bearing a stronger resemblance to cousin Syrah than to grandaddy Pinot Noir or pappy Teroldego, this deep, dark denizen is fresh yet full-figured, with black-fruited mystique, solid tannins, an almost juniper-like herbaceous gusto, and healthy yet moderate acidity. Serving Suggestion: Turkey drumsticks w/ parsley, thyme, & onions. Butternut squash w/ brown butter green beans & pecans. Cheesy cauliflower w/ speck ham.
